The Gardener, Inc.
Landscape services

It's your property, aren't you worth it?

About Us

Experienced Landscape Contractor

We have provided landscape services to both residential and commercial customers since 1989!  We offer lawn services such as mowing, fertilizing, shrub and minor tree care and mulching.  In addition we offer landscape re-design, irrigation repair and hardscaping to select customers. Joining the ranks of our long time customers (avg. 10+years) will provide you the same benefits as our current customer base. 

We Care About the Details

They say that service comes with three options: price, speed and quality.  Pick two!

We may not be the fastest, but you can be assured that our work has the best interest of your landscaping at heart.

Customer Satisfaction

Your satisfaction is important and we strive to provide a service to achieve that.  We provide a thorough consultation so you understand whether your goals and the needs of your project are compatible.  


(In laymans terms) 


Why aerate? Your soil should remain loose. Traffic and weather combine to compact the soil, reducing the soils ability to breathe and drain. Aerating helps to open up the soil, allowing for oxygen and nutrient penetration. When to aerate? There is no preferred time for aerating. You may do so at any time during the year. Try to aerate when the soil is damp for maximum penetration. What type of aerator is best? Use a core aerator for best results. A spiker will compact the soil at the bottom of the hole counter acting the reason you aerate.

Soil testing and liming:

Soil testing kits are available at various locations. A small fee is associated with the service. They will be sent to Clemson for analysis. Soil acidity determines which nutrients can be absorbed by the plant and how well. Results will tell you what fertilizers to apply, to optimize growing conditions for the plants you specified.Why apply lime? Although I have heard of people who apply sugar to their yard, I suspect that the term to sweeten the soil has more to do with reducing acidity and improving growing conditions. Application rates will be listed on your soil test report.


Types. Include lime, gypsum, phosphates, iron, manganese,zinc and all other trace elements you will find in your own complete vitamins. Fertilizers which include trace elements will be better for your plants.When to fertilize the lawn? Warm season grass should be fertilized when the grass first starts greening and again about mid summer. Cool Season grasses should be fertilized in late September, December and February. Application of a slow release fertilizer will allow you to apply more while feeding your grass longer.Shrub Fertilizing. Fertilize shrubs twice a year, like you would a warm season lawn. Do not allow fertilizer to sit on damp foliage as it will burn the leaves. Some shrubs (like Azaleas) will benefit from a light fall application to retain foliage and improved color during the winter.Do I need a special fertilizer for my azaleas? Most likely not. The soil in the upstate of South Carolina is generally sufficiently acid not to warrant spending the extra money on specially formulated fertilizers.Warning. High nitrogen fertilizers (the first number on the formulation, e.g. 26-4-8) will promote top growth and deeper colors. Balanced growth between roots and crown will provide a healthier plant.What about lawn fertilizer companies? There are different views on this, but some of these companies have developed a bad reputation in our industry. Be careful what you sign up for.


Types. Grasses can be broadly categorized as warm season and cool season.Cool Season? These are the Fescue type lawn which stay green year round, even though they are dormant in the summer. Examples are Kentucky 31, and Rebel Warm Season? These can be broken down in three major groups for our area.Bermuda. This aggressive grass spreads via underground stolons and above ground runners. Improved varieties with better color and shorter growth habits are available. Chances are, your lawn will be invaded by this type grass at some point. Centipede. A slow growing grass which spreads by above ground runners only. It has a coarse texture, will tolerate poor soil and will revive well after periods of drought. Expect to wait two years for a full stand when seeding. Zoysia. A dense turf, resisting invasion of weeds due to its growth habit. Spreads by underground stolons only. One of the last to green up in spring and first to go dormant in fall. A reel type mower is preferred for cutting. (Yes, we have one) Cutting height. Cool season grass should be cut at 2-1/2 to 3 inches. Warm season should be cut at about 1-1/2 inch.Should I bag my clippings? Are you willing to pay a contractor extra for the additional work? Besides, a high quality commercial mower with sharp blades will do a fine job of shredding the clippings. With the clippings adequately small, thatch build-up will not be a problem.


Why mulch? Aside from the aesthetic aspect, mulch should be applied for three reasons. To regulate soil temperature. To maintain soil moisture. To control weeds. When to mulch? Preferably in the fall. The new mulch will protect the plants roots during the colder winter months. Shoot for about three inches total. What type of mulch should I get? I your property has drainage problems during heavy rain, Pine bark nuggets are a definite No-No. Red Oak would be the preferred choice, but can not be had. Settle for a mixed hardwood. Look for a dealer whose mulch has limited wood content, i.e. bark only. Double ground will give you a finer texture but will not last as long. Do not mulch annual flower beds. What about landscape fabric? It makes planting more time consuming. It will prevent weeds from growing up through the fabric, but not on it. Decomposing mulch is nutrient rich and weeds will just establish themselves on top of the fabric. Plastic? Don t go there!


Do I need it? Only if you want your plants to survive. It is possible to landscape your yard in ways that would reduce its water requirements. If global warming is not just a political threat but a real possibility, Xeriscaping is something to check in to.What type of system do I need? Each contractor has his preferences, mine is Rainbird. Look for a contractor who will isolate shrub beds from lawn areas. Get a drawing of the systems lay-out. Make the controller accessible to THE GARDENER for easy adjustments.Can I use my system to water newly planted areas? Only to a point. New plants will require more water then established plantings. You may wind up drowning what you have to save what you added. You may have to water the new stuff with a hose for a while.


I want to re-do my yard, but am on a budget! Consider breaking the work up in segments, we will work with you.What should I do first? Although flowers and shrubs are prettier, do the back bone of the garden first. This includes walks, patios, retaining walls, fences. Then move to the irrigation system and finally the planting.

For questions not answered here, you may click on the contact us button below. Keep in mind that this service is a courtesy, we reserve the right to delete requests from people whom we suspect to want freebies.

Contact Us

Send Message

Get A Free Quote

To get a free quote, please contact us at your convenience.  We look forward to serving you.

The Gardener, Inc.

(864) 444-5880


Monday - Friday: 7am - 5pm

Saturday: By appointment

Sunday: Closed